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History
The history of the Haida Gwaii population dates back roughly between 13,000 and 11,000 years ago, when the last ice age created low water levels around the islands. By around 5,000 years ago, the Haida population had become quite sizable, and the economy now consisted of hunting, fishing, and harvesting shellfish. The abundance of shellfish allowed the Haida to establish more permanent villages where food, tools, and other resources could be stored. This also led to the development of craftsmen who could devote more of their time to art.
In 1774, Haida Gwaii was visted by Juan Perez, and in 1778 by Captain James Cook. In 1787, the islands were surveyed by Captain George Dixon and named after one of his ships, the Queen Charlotte. In more recent times, the name Haida Gwaii has been introduced to replace the colonial name "Queen Charlotte Islands".
The islands thrived during the 18th and 19th century as a fur-trading centre; however, the introduction of smallpox and other diseases had reduced the population from 12,000 to 700 by the beginning of the twentieth century.
The population has since grown to around 6,000, and the economy is still largely resource-based. The main industries are logging, commercial fishing, mining, and tourism.
Location
The Queen Charlottes are located in British Columbia, Canada, west of the northern BC town of Prince Rupert. Two Islands, Graham Island to the north and Moresby Island to the south, comprise the majority of the land mass.
Places to See
- Graham Island
Graham Island is the largest of the Queen Charlotte Islands, covering 2,500 square miles (6,500 sq km), and is the most accessible and populated of the islands, with most of the significant communities.
- Moresby Island
Moresby Island is the smaller and less accessible of the two main islands, with less than 30 kilometres (18 miles) of public roads.
- Sandspit
The hamlet of Sandspit, on the northeastern tip of Moresby Island, is the Gateway to Gwaii Haanas. The only settlement on Moresby Island, Sandpit is the location of the main airport for the Queen Charlotte Islands. Sandspit's history goes back to at least one ancient Haida Village, Kil, which was situated east of Haans Creek. The first settlers at Sandspit established farms and ranches around the grassy flats.
- Queen Charlotte City
The first registered town site on the Islands, the laid-back fishing village of Queen Charlotte City is located along the shores of Bearskin Bay, 5 kilometres west of the ferry terminal at Skidegate Landing. Known as Charlotte by the locals, the administrative centre for the Queen Charlotte Islands is a small thriving village of government offices, a hospital and a variety of shops and accommodations.
- Skidegate
The Haida community of Skidegate, on the shores of Rooney Bay, was known for years as Skidegate Mission. Located 2 kilometres north of the ferry terminal at Skidegate Landing, Skidegate is the cultural centre of the Haida, where the visitor can examine art and cultural artifacts first-hand. The two ferry docks at Skidegate Landing serve ferries to Prince Rupert on the BC mainland and to Alliford Bay on Moresby Island.
- Tiell
Originally a Haida fish camp, and eventually established by ranchers and farmers from England, Tlell is now home to a colourful collection of artisans, earning the reputation of being the heart of the islands' art community. Located 43 kilometres north of the ferry terminal at Skidegate Landing, Tlell is a scattered settlement along the east coast of Graham Island, marking the southeast corner of Naikoon Provincial Park.
- Port Clements
At the estuary of the Yakoun River, on Masset Inlet, the logging and fishing village of Port Clements is a wonderful place to observe the giant trees of the temperate rainforest. Established in 1907, Port Clements became the first incorporated town in the Queen Charlotte Islands in 1914. Port Clements became the supply centre for giant spruce trees used in the construction of First World War military airplanes.
- Juskatla
Located off Masset Sound on Graham Island, south of Port Clements, the logging camp of Juskatla was established on Mamin Bay in Juskatla Inlet in the 1940s, to supply spruce for warplanes.
- Masset
The small village of Masset is the largest town on the Queen Charlotte Islands. Located a few kilometres south of the Haida village of Old Masset, at the northern end of Graham Island, Masset is the northern gateway to Naikoon Park.
- Old Masset
The Haida village of Old Masset, also known as Haida, is located on the east shore of Masset Inlet, on the site of three ancient Haida town sites. Old Masset is the administrative seat of the Council of the Haida Nation, and is home to about 600 Haida, including some well-known native carvers.
- North Beach
The fabulous North Beach in Naikoon Provincial Park is accessed from Masset, along scenic Tow Hill Road that cuts through a rain forest. At North Beach, according to Haida legend, raven first brought people into the world by coaxing them out of a clam shell, making North Beach the site of creation.
- Naden Harbour
At the head of Virago Sound on the north coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands, is pristine Naden Harbour, the remote location favoured by fishing lodges that attract sports anglers to the world-class salmon fishing offered by the islands.
- Langara Island
The remote and rugged Langara Island at the northwestern tip of the archipelago has a couple of small native villages, ancient rain forest, an impressive colony of seabirds, and a beautifully restored 1913 lighthouse. Langara has luxurious fishing lodges, and sportfishing companies abound, offering fabulous salmon and halibut fishing.
- Rennell Sound
Rennell Sound is the largest sound on the west coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands, cutting 18 miles (29 km) into Graham Island, the larger of the two main islands that comprise Haida Gwaii. Bounded by the snowcapped Queen Charlotte Mountains, the deep inlet offers wonderful recreational and sightseeing opportunities. The rugged coastline, beautiful crescent beaches and excellent beachcombing along the gravel shoreline, great hiking, camping, fishing and kayaking make the trip very worthwhile.
- Moresby Camp
The abandoned logging site at Moresby Camp is the closest road access to Gwaai Haanas National Park. Moresby Camp serves as a floatplane and kayak departure point for those venturing into the park, 50 kilometres (30 miles) to the south.
- Louise Island
Louise Island is enveloped by Moresby Island, Hecate Strait and other islands on the east coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands. The mountainous Louise Island is home to the abandoned Haida village of Skedans, and one of the largest displays of totem poles in these mystical islands.
- Kiusta and Lepas Bay
The old villages at Kiusta and Langara Island were the original trading centres for sea otter furs between the Europeans and Haida for this part of the Pacific Northwest Coast. Today, the site of the abandoned Kiusta village is part of the Rediscovery Program, a youth program that encourages the young people of the province to get in touch with their cultural heritage. Some of the earliest contact between native Haida and whites occurred at Kiusta and Yaku. The first Rediscovery camp for local youth is located at Lepas Bay on the northeast tip of the Queen Charlotte Islands.
- Haida Heritage Centre
The Haida Gwaii Museum is dedicated to conserving and making accessible the human and natural history of Haida Gwaii through exhibitions, research and public programs.
Originally opened in 1976, the Haida Gwaii Museum is located at the old Haida village site of Qay’llnagaay - which translates to "Sea Lion Town" in Haida.
Things to Do
- Fishing
Fishing is the most common sport in the Queen Charlottes, and fishing is exceptional year-round fishing. Anglers are drawn by the world-class salmon fishing, as the island archipelago is the first land mass on the migratory path of the Pacific chinook, coho, and chum salmon as they journey from the Arctic feeding grounds to their spawning grounds in the Pacific Northwest. Fishing guides abound, and luxurious fishing lodges, floating lodges and sportfishing motherships provide the ultimate fishing experience in this last frontier.
- Canoeing and Kayaking
On the southeastern side of Haida Gwaii, there are tiny islands, secluded coves, and plenty of sheltered coastline, all waiting to be explored by kayak. Gwaii Haanas Park is the most popular kayaking area, with destinations like Hotspring Island, Burnaby Narrows, Windy Bay, Anthony Island, Tanu, St. James Island, and Rose Harbour.
- Hiking
There are four trails running through Naikoon Provincial Park, and hiking time ranges from a few hours to a few days. Many of the Forest Service recreational sites on Graham Island are located along beaches, with long stretches of open sand before your wandering feet. If level, sandy beaches aren't your cup of tea, try the Sleeping Beauty Trail, which leads up to the top of Mount Genevieve near Queen Charlotte City. It's not a long trail, but it is steep. Over on Moresby Island, The Gray Bay-Cumshewa Head Trail leads along the shoreline of Cumshewa Head, on the eastern points on Moresby.
- Wildlife Viewing
The Queen Charlottes are rich in wildlife in the sky and sea, and on the ground. Many of the animals are native, but some - blacktail deer, elk, beavers, raccoons, and even wild cows in Naikoon Provincial Park - are introduced. Among the native species, expect to see black bears, and river otters, birds such as bald eagles, Steller's jays, and peregrine falcons, and all kinds of ocean creatures, from grey and killer whales to jellyfish and starfish. One of the best places to see the latter is in Burnaby Narrows on the east side of Moresby Island, accessible only by boat from Moresby camp. Visitors in this area can never be sure what manner of creature will show up - a gang of Dall's porpoises, numbering up to 300 strong, may escort you as you sail or paddle along in the southern section of Gwaii Haanas.
Because the islands are situated along the Pacific flyway, dozens of species of migrating birds stop here in spring and fall, providing a fabulous opportunities for birdwatching. A good place to go is the Delkatla Wildlife Sanctuary near Masset, at the head of the Delkatla inlet. Sandhill cranes stop here in spring and fall on their migratory routes, and tundra swans stay for the winter. Dozens of other birds can be found here at different times of the year. Other common nesting spots for migrating birds are the Rose Spit and Tow Hill ecological reserves in Naikoon Provincial Park, and Yakoun River Estuary near Port Clements is also a good place for birding.
No visit to the Queen charlotte Islands will be complete without whale watching. Resident and transient killer whales can be viewed, and gray whales pass by the islands during spring as they migrate from their calving and wintering grounds in the lagoons of Baja California to their summer feeding grounds in the Bering Sea and Arctic Ocean. Humpback Whales can also be seen on the surface, engaging in spy-hopping, flipper-flapping, tail-slapping, and breaching.
- Totem Viewing
Totem poles are wonderful examples of aboriginal art. The ancient practice of totem carving has been handed down through generations as a way of preserving the history of local native heritage as well as honouring tribal rituals and sacred spirits of people. There are many ways to experience the rich culture and native heritage of British Columbia's most fascinating people. For your own exploration of some of the best totem poles and aboriginal art in British Columbia, embark upon one of the many circle tours.
Events
- Masset Harbour Days
Victoria Day long weekend - family events with parade, kids' events, ball tournament and barbecue.
- Loggers Sports Day
Sandspit - Log-rolling, burling, sawing. scheduled the end of July, beginning of August.
- Skidegate Days
Skidegate - an annual community fundraiser.
- Tlell Fall Fair
Naikoon Park, August 5th - The Fair is the earliest Fall Fair in BC and hosts local and off-island music talent; judging of crafts, gardening, animal husbandry; displays, pony rides; playing in and around the Tlell River; socializing, and of course - enjoying food!
- Edge of the World Music Festival
Tlell, August 10th and 11th - The Festival hosts local and off-island talent. Food, crafts, and camping are available.
- Hospital Day
Probably the most notable event of the year in Queen Charlotte City, Hospital Day has a long history: originating in 1908 to raise money to build the city's first hospital. Today all funds are used to support the hospital contributing such necessary items as birthing beds, physiotherapy equipment and monitors.
Though over the years the activities have changed, the day always begins with a parade through town to the Community Grounds and follows with games and entertainment for everyone: the VIP dunk tank, shopping cart races, marathon races and the gum boot toss as well as an auction and food booths are favourite features. A dance with live music in the Community Hall ends the day of festivities. Hospital Day is held on the Saturday closest to June 21 each year.
- Halloween Dance
Queen Charlotte City - An evening of dancing with such an incredible array of costumes that the judges have a difficult time choosing the "best" ones in each category. The Community Hall is always filled to capacity for this annual fund raiser for the Volunteer Fire Department and Community Club.
Contact Information
Queen Charlotte City
Website: www.queencharlotte.ca
Haida Heritage Centre
E-mail: info@haidaheritagecentre.com
Website: www.haidaheritagecentre.com
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