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History
Bamfield is populated by the Nuu-chah-nulth people, who occupied large villages in the Broken Group and Deer Group Islands and at Execution Rock, Cape Beale and Grappler Inlet. Prior to contact with Europeans, the native population of Barkley Sound is estimated to have been between 3000 and 5000. Village sites, middens, fish traps, culturally modified trees, lookouts and fallen longhouses remain as part of the rich cultural heritage. Europeans founded a small fishing community sometime in the late 1800s.
Bamfield was named after the first government agent of the area, Edder Banfield. The name "Bamfield" with an "m" is said to be either due to how the local first nations people had trouble pronouncing the letter n in his name, or a typo by the postal organization. In 1902, the Bamfield Cable station was constructed as the western terminus of a worldwide undersea cable called by some the All Red Line, as it passed only through countries and territories controlled by the British Empire, which were coloured red on the map. The cable initially went to Fanning Island, a tiny coral atoll in the mid-Pacific, and from there continued to Fiji, New Zealand, and Australia. A second building, made of concrete was built on the site in 1926 to replace the old wood structure. This building, designated a historic site in 1930, is now used by the Bamfield Marine Sciences Centre.
In 1953 the cables were extended up the Alberni Inlet to Port Alberni and the station closed on June 20, 1959. Following the closure, only the large concrete building, two cable storage tanks, and an adjacent building survived, as all the rest had been torn down.
Commercial fishing was based in Bamfield up to the mid-80s, but instead it is now home to several sport fishing lodges, which primarily pursue salmon or halibut. Bamfield is also the northern end of the West Coast Trail, a world-famous hiking trail built in 1907 along the west coast of Vancouver Island to help survivors of the area's many shipwrecks find their way back to civilization. The trail runs 77 kilometres along extremely rugged terrain.
Today Bamfield is primarily a tourist destination, either for the West Coast Trail, ocean kayaking or sport fishing. Bamfield also receives many university students who attend semesters at the Bamfield Marine Sciences Centre.
Location
Bamfield is located in the heart of the Pacific Rim National Park on the west coast of Vancouver Island, 89 kilometres (56 miles) from Port Alberni and 123 kilometres (77 miles) from Lake Cowichan. Bamfield is reached from either of two directions, both of which require several hours drive on gravel logging roads. You can drive to Bamfield on black top as far as Port Alberni, and thereafter over 89 kilometres (56 miles) of well-maintained gravel roads south of Port Alberni to Bamfield, or along a 123 kilometre (77 mile) route west of Lake Cowichan via Nitinat Lake. The gravel logging road takes about two hours to travel, and is mostly used by logging trucks during the week, so caution is required.
Visitors can also fly by chartered floatplane from several locations on Vancouver Island, including Port Alberni, Nanaimo, Victoria and Vancouver on the mainland.
Places to See
- Bamfield Marine Sciences Centre
For over 35 years, the Bamfield Marine Sciences Centre has provided world-class facilities to a community of world-class research biologists, ecologists and oceanographers. It supports diverse coastal and marine research of the highest calibre and is recognized as among the very best research and training facilities in the world.
BMSC was established in 1972 by the Western Canadian Universities Marine Sciences Society in order to provide a permanent base for marine-oriented field operations on the west coast of Canada. The property consists of 75 hectares with approximately 3.0 kilometers of waterfront at the confluence of Grappler and Bamfield Inlets.
Situated within the traditional territory of the Huu ay aht First Nation in Barkley Sound, and adjacent the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, BMSC offers unparalleled access to a wide array of environments - including unique coastal, marine and rainforest habitats and exceptional species diversity.
BMSC is owned and operated by the non-profit Western Canadian Universities Marine Sciences Society (WCUMSS) whose members are the University of Alberta, the University of British Columbia, the University of Calgary, Simon Fraser University and the University of Victoria.
- Barkley Sound
Barkley Sound is home to many species of seaweed, which are harvested and sold here. Oysters, clams, shrimp, prawns, crabs, and mussels abound and go very nicely with a fresh-caught salmon, halibut, ling cod, or red snapper.
- The Broken Group Islands
The Broken Group Islands are a very popular kayaking area. Brady's beach is just a 20 minute walk from Bamfield Lodge; a beautiful sandy beach, many tide pools, and glorious sunsets. There are other beaches within walking distance as well as trails, including the famous "West Coast Trail".
- Boardwalk
Take a pleasant stroll along the Boardwalk that runs along Bamfield Inlet past old weather-beaten houses and native plant gardens, and visit what the locals call downtown - the General Store, the Coast Guard Station, Post Office, and a Cappuccino Bar. From the Boardwalk you can watch the boat traffic on the waterway, the main street of Bamfield.
- Cape Beale Lightstation
The lighthouse was built in 1874 and is 51 meters above sea level. The present tower was built in 1958 and marks the entrance to Barkley Sound. Cape Beale received its name from Captain Charles William Barkley who named it for John Beale. The lighthouse is best known for its proximity to the West Coast Trail which is the theoretical route survivors of shipwrecks would take to get to the nearby community of Bamfield.
- Pacific Rim National Park
The magnificent Pacific Rim National Park is the only national park on Vancouver Island, providing protection for substantial rain forests and an amazing marine environment on the west coast of Vancouver Island. The full force of the mighty Pacific Ocean mercilessly pounds the constantly changing shores of this rugged coastline. The territory now occupied by the park has a significant history, having been inhabited by the Nuu-chah-nulth people for thousands of years. A rich natural heritage evolved as Vancouver Island became isolated from the mainland, retaining a great diversity of mammals, birds, reptiles, amphibians, and fish species. This unique park encompasses a total area of 49,962 hectares of land and ocean in three separate geographic units - Long Beach, the Broken Group Islands and the West Coast Trail. Features of the park include long sandy beaches, an island archipelago, old-growth coastal temperate rainforest and significant Nuu-chah-nulth archaeological sites.
Things to Do
- Fishing
The Barkley Sound offers more tyees than anywhere on the west coast! Salmon aren't the only fish in the ocean - halibut and cod also promise thrilling catches. The Broken Group Islands and Bamfield Harbour also offer good angling for salmon, rockfish, and halibut.
The Alberni Inlet and Barkley Sound offer year-round fishing. Salmon school in the inlet before ascending to the spawning grounds. Large runs of sockeye from the Stamp/Somass River system and Henderson Lake, and chinook from the Robertson Creek Hatchery, swim past Bamfield on their way to Alberni Inlet rivers. The Alberni Inlet on Vancouver Island is a long, narrow flute that leads 40 kilometres (25 miles) inland to Port Alberni from the open ocean of Barkley Sound and the Pacific Ocean.
- Whale Watching
Grey whales, Humpback and Killer whales migrate the coastal waters, and porpoises, seals, sea lions, and elephant seals are viewed along the coastline.
- Hiking
The northern terminus of the world-famous West Coast Trail is located at Pachena Bay, 3 kilometres (2 miles) south of Bamfield. The trail is a 7 to 10-day adventure trek that draws hikers from around the world. The challenging journey is often begun from Port Renfrew to the south in order to clear the steepest sections first. However, for those who wish to sample a smaller section of the trail, you can hike from Pachena Bay to the Nitinat Narrows and back in three days.
Several other great hiking trails lead to incredible beaches in the Bamfield area. Enjoy the short walk to Brady's Beach or hike farther to Cape Beale Lighthouse or to Keeha and Tapaltos beaches. Venture with care and you'll come away with wonderful memories of your time spent by the shoreline, where many creatures live in splendid harmony with the ocean's deep rhythms.
- Camping
There's wilderness camping on open beach or nearby in the Reserve at Pachena Bay Campground, about 5 kilometres (3 miles) south of Bamfield. Fashion your own rough campsite here on the sandy surf beach at the north end of the West Coast Trail. Be sure to bring a tarp or two (plus plenty of rope) to help create a dry shelter for yourself. The campground is operated by the Huu-ay-aht (Ohiaht) First Nation in Bamfield.
- Diving
The clear waters of Barkley Sound and the surrounding waters reward scuba divers with shipwrecks and abundant intertidal life. The many old shipwrecks in the area provide great reefs for marine life.
- Bird Watching
Bamfield is renowned as a bird watching area, with a wide variety of birds, including bald eagles, ospreys, and herons, and the endangered marbled murrelet and spotted owl.
- Storm Watching
Storm watching near Bamfield in winter allows visitors to experience the raw power of the mighty Pacific Ocean, as ferocious waves roll in from Japan and pound the shores of the rugged west coast - nature in all its fierce majesty!
Events
- Music by the Sea Festival
Music by the Sea is an annual international festival with nightly concerts during the middle of the summer. In July 2007 the five concerts all featured a wide range of music genres and world-class performances, from classical, contemporary solo, and chamber music, through to sophisticated jazz and alternative music. The stunning new Rix Centre for Ocean Discoveries affords perfect acoustics and a full-on view of the Pacific as a backdrop to the performances. It is the most intimate and inspiring music venue in the Pacific Northwest.
- Sea Kayak Festival
Paddlers should aim to visit Bamfield during the annual Sea Kayak Festival in late September, highlights of which include the 5-nautical mile main race, intermediate and novice races, a doubles race, a skills event, rowboat relay, a rescue demonstration, and a paddling clinic. Festivities include a BBQ, dance and a pancake breakfast.
Contact Information
Bamfield Chamber of Commerce
Bamfield, British Columbia
Canada V0R 1B0
Phone: 250 728-3006
E-mail: info@bamfieldchamber.com
Website: www.bamfieldchamber.com
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